Nirmal Purja, a 36-year-old Nepalese climber, achieved a historic milestone by becoming the first person to climb all 14 of the world’s 8,000-meter peaks in just six months and six days. He completed his mission on October 13, 2019, with a successful ascent of the Shishapangma in China — According to sources, Purja began his ambitious expedition on April 23, 2019, with the Annapurna, and finished with the final climb at the 8027-meter Shishapangma.

A Controversial but Record-Breaking Achievement

While Purja’s feat was hailed as an extraordinary achievement, some purists in the climbing community questioned the methods and speed of his climbs; Prior to his attempt, only about 40 climbers had ever completed all 14 8,000-meter peaks, with the previous record being just under eight years. Purja, a former British Gurkha, trained intensively for this endeavor, taking time off from his military career and financing the expedition through a mortgage on his home.

“It was zermürbend—grueling. I hope I proved that with determination, self-belief, and a positive attitude, anything is possible,” Purja said after completing his last climb; Reinhold Messner, the first climber to complete the 8,000-meter peaks in 1986, congratulated Purja, calling it a “unique achievement in mountaineering.”

Tragedy on Broad Peak

Despite his success in 2019, Purja was involved in a tragic incident in August 2023 on Broad Peak in Pakistan’s Karakoram range. An avalanche struck the mountain on August 1, claiming the lives of at least 10 climbers, including Purja and five other Nepalese mountaineers. According to reports, the group had gone missing after the avalanche, which swept them down 800 meters from an elevation of 6,000 meters. The bodies of four climbers were recovered, while six others, including Purja, remained missing as of August 3, 2023.

The team included international climbers such as Nadhira Ahmed Abdullah Al Harthy from Oman, Sohail Sakhi from Pakistan, and Mallory Geis from the United States. The Nimsdai Foundation and Elite Foundation confirmed the deaths following the avalanche, which occurred on Broad Peak, an 8,047-meter mountain. Adverse weather conditions hindered immediate rescue efforts.

Controversies and Ethical Debates in Modern Climbing

Purja’s climbing style has not been without controversy. In a recent expedition on Kangchenjunga, questions arose about whether climbers, including Purja, used helicopters to shortcut the traditional route. According to reports, Qatari princess Asma Al Thani summited Kangchenjunga in two days with Purja, Lakpa Dendi, and others. Al Thani’s account mentioned the team started from Camp 2, which raised eyebrows in the climbing community.

Helicopter use in Himalayan climbing is typically restricted to rescues or logistics, and starting from Camp 2 instead of Base Camp is seen as an unconventional and ethically questionable practice. Mingma G, a professional colleague of Purja, clarified that the only confirmed helicopter use was during a rescue operation during the first summit attempt. However, the debate highlights a growing trend in high-altitude mountaineering, where time and convenience often take precedence over traditional methods.

Purja’s career, marked by both record-breaking success and tragic loss, reflects the evolving and sometimes controversial nature of modern high-altitude climbing. His 2019 achievement remains a benchmark in the sport, while the Broad Peak tragedy serves as a sobering reminder of the risks involved in such endeavors.